The Experience of an Authentic Finnish Sauna
Savitaipale, February 7, 2018.
Unlike other days, and despite keeping the heating on all the time, today it felt much colder inside the house. Our hands were frozen, and staying focused while standing still for too long was a challenge. Luckily, we gradually started to warm up.
An Unexpected Visit
This morning brought an unusual anecdote. We were quietly working when an unknown man and a woman walked into the shop, asking for one of my colleagues. This would’ve been unremarkable if not for two things: 1. no one really knows us here, and 2. they spoke English, which is rare since all our customers are Finnish and communicate in Finnish.
The colleague they were looking for wasn’t around, so the lady in charge of the WorkAway program attended to them. They spoke in Finnish, so we couldn’t follow the conversation, but we repeatedly heard our colleague’s name. Their demeanor wasn’t exactly friendly, and they seemed to be observing everything closely. They also noticed that people from other countries were working in the house. I went unnoticed, but my colleagues from Indonesia and Yemen didn’t. Their features made it clear they weren’t locals, and the visitors asked for their IDs. That’s when we realized—they were police officers.
When they checked my colleagues’ documents, the woman turned to me with a suspicious look and asked something in Finnish. Since I didn’t understand, it became clear I was also a foreigner, and she asked for my ID too. She followed with questions like where I was from, when I arrived in Finland, how long I planned to stay, and whether I had visas for other countries in my passport.
WorkAway: Legal or Not?
Fortunately, we were all here legally. WorkAway and HelpX-style volunteer programs are allowed, provided your stay doesn’t exceed three months. Beyond that, you need to register with Finnish immigration. Still, I suspect these practices may not be permitted in the future, as volunteers like us don’t pay taxes. The government likely prefers that all workers, regardless of type, are registered and declare earnings. However, as volunteers, we don’t receive monetary compensation—just food and lodging in exchange for work.
In the end, it was just a curious anecdote. We learned the officers had come all the way from Lappeenranta because our colleague had left a document at the police station. They made the trip to personally check her identity and clarify the situation. All turned out fine in the end!
The Town’s Finnish Sauna
Visiting an authentic Finnish sauna has been one of the most memorable experiences so far. It’s a must-do if you visit Finland in winter. A few days ago, I shared my experience of using a private sauna at home, but this time was different. We tried a genuine Finnish public sauna.
How It Works
In Savitaipale, there’s a public sauna open every Wednesday at Olkkola, about a 10-minute walk from our house. There are two sessions: 4 PM to 6:30 PM for women and 6:30 PM to 8 PM for men. The separate timings are because Finns often use saunas nude, and mixed groups might feel uncomfortable.
During our session, there were four of us: two older women, my friend, and me. One of the women was nude, but we wore swimsuits—an easier way to ease into the experience!
What the Sauna is Like Inside
The public sauna is a wooden cabin with two rooms. Upon entering, there’s a simple changing room where you leave your belongings. There are no lockers—it’s rustic and authentic, with items placed on benches. The floor is a metal grating directly above the icy ground, which helps prepare your feet for the cold. Surprisingly, the floor wasn’t wooden (contrary to what I expected).
To the left of the changing room is the door to the sauna itself. This sauna was wood-fired, and you had to ladle water onto hot stones to create steam.
One quirky detail was the payment method. It costs €2, but instead of paying on-site, you write your name and address in a notebook, and somehow (I’ve no idea how), they charge you later. No bank details are provided, so unless they send the bill to your house, it’s a mystery!
A Swim to Remember
We arrived late, entering the sauna around 6:10 PM, leaving us 20 minutes before the men’s session. We spent about 10 minutes chatting with the two ladies, who, as it turns out, have been coming every Wednesday for years. Then, at 6:20 PM, it was time for the big moment—now or never!
Running to the Lake!
We dashed out of the sauna in our swimsuits and half-jogged down the icy path to the lake. The “pool” is essentially a hole cut into the frozen lake, with a ladder for entering and exiting.
To my surprise, stepping out into the freezing air wasn’t as shocking as I thought it would be. The sauna’s heat penetrates deeply into your body, helping you withstand sub-zero temperatures without feeling cold. However, we made one big mistake—we didn’t wear flip-flops. The moment our feet touched the ice, they started swelling and burning.
Getting into the lake was intense. The best strategy? Don’t overthink it. Especially if you’re a beginner, just go for it. Overthinking can make you panic, and you won’t enjoy the experience. After all, plunging into a frozen lake at -12°C isn’t something you do every day.
Naturally, we jumped in and out quickly, racing back to the sauna. Luckily, one of our companions had my towel ready and wrapped it around me as I emerged. My body trembled, especially my arms, and I felt swollen—mainly in my feet. At that moment, I couldn’t think clearly; it was like my body and mind froze entirely. A strange sensation, but now I can proudly say I’ve swum in a frozen lake at -12°C!
Back to the Sauna
We returned to the sauna to warm up and let our bodies recover. We were bright red but incredibly grateful for the heat.
Once dressed and ready to head home, I noticed something surprising—I wasn’t cold at all. I could walk outside comfortably without a coat, gloves, or scarf, wearing fewer layers than usual. For example, I didn’t even bother putting my pants over my thermal leggings. Whether it was the sauna’s lingering warmth or sheer distraction, I didn’t feel the cold at all.
A Memorable Experience
Without a doubt, this has been an experience I hope to repeat. Who knows? Maybe next Wednesday!
